“Nude Caress” Formulation SPF 30 BB Cream

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
39.00

PGSS-22 Yellow N°602P (Daito Kasei) (Iron oxide (and) methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane)
0.58

PGSS-22 Red N°211P (Daito Kasei) (Iron oxide (and )methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane)
0.24

PGSS-22 TiO2 R250 (Daito Kasei) (Titanium dioxide (and) methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane)
4.80

Talc superior M10 (Imerys Talc) (Talc)
0.50

Versene Na2 Crystals (Dow) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Optim Glycerine (Dow) (Glycerin)
3.00

Aculyn 28 Rheology Modifier (Dow) (Acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer)
1.00

SunSpheres PGL SPF Booster (Dow) (Styrene/acrylates copolymer)
11.60

Phase B

Crodamol AB (Croda) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
8.00

Glucamate SSE20 (Lubrizol) (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate)
0.65

Tegocare PS (Evonik) (Methyl glucose sesquistearate)
1.38

EcoSmooth Delight Polymer (Dow) (C14-22 alkane and ethylene/octene copolymer)
2.00

Phase C

Permeathyl 99A (Presperse) (Isododecane)
2.00

Neo Heliopan HMS (Symrise)(Homosalate)
5.00

Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise)(Octocrylene)
5.00

Parsol MCX (DSM) (Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate)
5.00

Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethyl hexyl salicilate)
4.00

Neo Heliopan 357 (Symrise) (Avobenzone)
4.00

Phase D

Trisamino Ultra PC Specialty Neutralizer (solution 20%) (Dow) (Tromethamine)
q.s. to pH

Phase E

Neolone PH100 (Dow) (Phenoxyethanol)
0.66

Hydrolite 8 (Symrise) (Caprylyl glycol)
0.54

Parfum Suntan E 1023711 (Mane)
0.20

Deionized water
q.s. to 100

Procedure

Phase A: Add pigments and talc to water (premix pigments together before). Mix until dispersed. Add the other ingredients of phase A and heat to 70°C. Add ingredients of phase B and heat to 85°C under efficient mixing to ensure melting of EcoSmooth Delight. Prepare phase C, mixing ingredients and heating to 70°. Decrease temperature of phase B to 70°C with mixing. At 70°C, add phase C to phase B under mixing. Add phase B/C to phase A and stir for 2 minutes at high speed. Homogenize for 3-5 minutes at ~13000/14000 rpm. Stir with gentle mixing and cool down to temperature below 35°C. Adjust pH to 6.0 - 6.5 with phase D. Add ingredients of Phase E.